The River and the Tunnels

Fifty-one miles of concrete nobody can see into, and thousands more miles of dark underneath it.

The one piece of infrastructure that touches every district in the city, and the only way to cross Los Angeles without being on a street.

Layer one: the channel. The river was poured into concrete after the 1938 flood and it has been a flood channel ever since — fifty-one miles from Canoga Park down through the Valley, past Griffith Park, under downtown and the 6th Street bridge, through Vernon and the rail corridor, and out at the harbour mouth. It is dry most of the year, it is graded below street level with bridges overhead, and there are almost no sightlines into it from anywhere anybody lives. You can walk, ride or drive it from the Valley to Long Beach and be seen by nobody.

It is also a flood channel, which means exactly what it says. A storm thirty miles away in the mountains arrives here as a wall of water with no warning anybody in the channel will hear. People die in it every year and always have.

Layer two: the drains and tunnels. Thousands of miles of storm drain feed the channel, and where the city has built anything ambitious it left a hole behind. The abandoned Pacific Electric tunnel under Bunker Hill. Service ducts between the downtown towers. Metro's maintenance runs. The vaults under the harbour that the pump crews use to reach the injection wells. Prohibition-era basements downtown that connect buildings whose owners no longer exist. None of it is mapped in one place and several people would like to keep it that way.

The rule that matters: the deeper you go, the less of it is yours. The channel is public and everyone knows it — you can be down there legally and be told to leave, and that's all. The drains are claimed, stretch by stretch, by people who will want to discuss it, and the map of who holds what exists only in their heads.

What the crew knows

Getting in

Down at the Glendale Narrows, at the Arroyo Seco confluence, from the maintenance ramps under most bridges, or through any of ten thousand storm drain outlets. There is no gate to defeat anywhere on the system — access is trivial and the difficulty is entirely about knowing which stretch is whose and which outlet comes up somewhere useful.

The tunnels are the opposite: knowing an entrance is the whole skill, and the entrances are in basements, substations, pump houses and utility rooms belonging to people who will ask what you're doing.