West Hollywood

One point nine square miles that still has a working city government, because it built one once already.

The smallest district in Los Angeles and the only one that answers the question "who's in charge here" with a name and an office.

West Hollywood was its own city long before Los Angeles stopped being one. It incorporated in 1984, out of a coalition of gay and lesbian residents, elderly renters and tenant organisers who wanted rent control and no more towers, and who won the vote and then won the council. The rent boards that came out of that have been running continuously ever since. So when California threw the sprawl away in 2057 and every other district discovered it had no government, this one had a council, a budget, a rent ordinance, an elections office and seventy years of institutional memory about how to run a small city that nobody else wanted to run.

It is also why the district came through the plague years better than neighbourhoods ten times its size. The mutual aid here is old. It was built for an epidemic in the twentieth century, kept up through the decades after, and when VITAS arrived the buddy systems, the volunteer clinics and the phone trees already existed and simply switched targets.

The result, in 2060, is a place that is unglamorous in the specific way that functioning places are unglamorous. Trash gets collected. The clinic is open. There are seniors in rent-controlled apartments who have lived in them for fifty years, families, contractors, nurses, restaurant staff, council employees, and a lot of people who commute out to jobs in worse districts and come home to a street where the lights work.

Sunset is the exception and everybody knows it. The Strip is corporate nightlife — hotels, towers, membership clubs, out-of-town money, and security that belongs to the venues rather than to the city. Two blocks south of it, it's apartment buildings.

What the crew knows

Getting in

No border, no permit. Walk in off Fairfax or down from the hills. The friction is social and administrative: dense streets, neighbours who know each other, patrol that actually responds, and a district small enough that a strange vehicle parked for six hours gets noticed by a person rather than a camera.

The Strip's venues are the opposite — anonymous, transactional, and expensive.