Santa Monica Pier

Half a mile of sealed deck over closed water, and not one foot of it is anybody's to zone.

Santa Monica Pier
On this page (8 sections)
    1. What you are actually paying for
    2. The gallery, on the old deck
    3. Upstairs, on the two added decks
    4. The containers, on the outer half
    5. Underneath
    6. What it is carrying
  1. What the crew knows
  2. Getting in

A hundred and fifty years old, twice the length it was built at, and the tallest thing on this coastline below the bluff.

The pier is the reason there's anything to do in Santa Monica, and the reason is jurisdictional rather than scenic. The district's boards govern land: tenancies, rents, use, the things a city council does. The pier is a timber and concrete structure standing in water that a hazard cordon closed in 2056, which means it is not land, not inside the cordon's own remit, and not anybody's to zone. Nobody could give permission and nobody could refuse it, which in this city is the same as an invitation.

So it got built on, and then built out. The 1909 deck is still sixteen hundred feet, rebuilt so often that none of the original timber is left in it. Past that, the 2040s drove another sixteen hundred feet of light trestle out over closed water, and the tip now stands a little over half a mile from the bridge at Colorado. The inner half of that is behind glass. The outer half never was, and the rent out there is a third of the gallery's for exactly that reason.

What you are actually paying for#

The water is the point and you never touch it. What people buy is being above an ocean in a city where the ocean is fenced off: half a mile out, the Tide underneath you, six feet of glass in the way, and air you can breathe.

That last one is the expensive part. Standing over the Tide puts you in the worst air in the district. It comes off the surface, it's worse on a west wind, and being half a mile out means being in it rather than downwind of it. So everything here is sealed: fixed glazing, gasketed doors, filtration running on the tenants' own power, positive pressure so the leak goes outward. A wall of glass with the ocean six feet away and clean air on your side of it is available nowhere else on this coast, and people will pay a great deal for two hours of it.

"Tourist" means something different now, because nobody flies in: there is no commercial passenger aviation into this city. What the pier gets instead is three kinds of visitor. Angelenos, in numbers, who come to look at water they aren't allowed to touch, and because it's the ocean and it's theirs and this is the only way to have it. Corporate staff on rotation, posted here for eighteen months from somewhere else and shown the ocean on the company's money. And Pueblo day-trippers on weekend permits, who come for everything their Council won't license at any price and for a weekend that leaves no record against a shareholder's account. The licensed casinos are Pueblo's own and better, so nobody crosses the line for the tables. That last group spends the most and the whole structure is priced for them.

The sealing crept outward until there was none of it left. The Hippodrome went first, because it was already a building. The levels added from the 2040s were built sealed from the start. The old deck itself was last, glassed over end to end in the fifties, and nobody argued: by then it stood empty on any day the wind was wrong, which is most of them, and a ride nobody can run is worth less than a ride behind glass.

Nothing on the inner half is open to the air. A century of pictures says otherwise and every visitor arrives expecting a boardwalk. The rides are lit and turning six feet from a wall you cannot open.

The seal stops at sixteen hundred feet, and knowing where it stops is most of knowing how to move around out here. Everything on the old deck and everything stacked above it is one continuous pressurized envelope: the gallery, the upper rooms, and the glazed walkways between them. You can come off the tube and spend a day up there without putting a mask on. Past that mark the walkway is open trestle in open air, each container sealed on its own account, and the people who work out there carry a respirator the way anybody else carries keys.

The board at the Colorado end still posts the day's wind, the way other cities post a forecast. It tells you about the walk now rather than the destination, and the people it matters most to are the ones renting past the glass.

You come in at the Hippodrome, which was a building before anything else out here was: brick and stucco, arched windows, a broad conical roof with a cupola, gasketed decades ahead of the rest of the structure. The Looff carousel inside it still turns and a family from Pico is still riding it on a Sunday afternoon.

Past that is the gallery proper, one glazed hall built out over the old midway and following the shapes of what was already standing there: a hundred and forty feet at the crown of the wheel, nine stories of glass with a ferris wheel and a steel coaster running inside it. From the beach the whole thing reads as one long lit box with machinery moving in it. This is the level the boards have never contested.

Inside the gallery: the wheel turning behind glass nine stories up, and the midway underneath it

What the gallery sells:

Upstairs, on the two added decks#

Two levels bolted on above the inner half from the 2040s onward, out of light steel, fixed glass and whatever else was to hand: sealed rooms, glazed walkways strung between them, and stairs mounted on the outside for anybody willing to be in the air for thirty seconds. The top walkway puts you sixty feet over the water with glass on both sides of you.

The walkways are the one thing up here nobody owns, so the plant that filters them runs off a levy the tenants argue about and underpay by habit. Corridor air is the worst air on the pier anybody breathes on purpose: hazy at the far end of a run, condensation standing on the glass, gray streaks down the wall under every intake. A respirator hangs on a hook beside each door to an outside stair, and going down one is the only time anybody up here puts one on.

The third-level walkway: sealed corridor, numbered doors, and a masked figure on the stair beyond the glass

Nothing up here has a name on the door. Rooms carry numbers, hand-painted by whoever owned the room, in no sequence anybody has ever reconciled, and the number is what you get handed when somebody sends you: third level, 214, ask for the woman with the tablet. Walk up without one and you will be treated very politely and sold nothing.

This is where the trade is:

The containers, on the outer half#

Past sixteen hundred feet the deck changes under your feet. Nobody put another level out there, because the piles will not take one and everybody who has surveyed them says so, so nothing past that mark is more than one story tall. What went out instead is light: shipping containers craned on and bolted down, cabins framed in aluminum, gasketed at the seams, running off cable strung along the handrail with filtration boxes squatting on the roofs. Two rows and a walkway between them, a couple of hundred units, and the run goes on for another sixteen hundred feet.

Nobody ever glassed that walkway, so the outer half is the only part of the pier still outdoors. You put the mask on at the last door of the gallery and take it off inside whichever box you came for. Everybody out here owns a good respirator and most of them own a spare, and a tenant you pass on the walkway is a pair of eyes over a filter cartridge.

Every unit wears a porch, because a container with one door would flood itself every time somebody visited. They're bolted onto the door end out of sheet steel and salvaged panel: an outer door, three feet of nothing, an inner door, and the pressure blows outward when the outer one opens. Cycling through takes about twenty seconds and holds one person and a handcart, so nobody rushes a container out here and nobody leaves one quickly either. A porch coming apart at the seams belongs to somebody who doesn't get visitors.

An address out here is two numbers, the row and the box, stenciled on by whichever yard the container came out of and never repainted.

The container walkway at night: every door shut, both tenants masked, and the Tide coming up through the deck

What the containers rent is a room with one door, at a third of the gallery's rent, and sixteen hundred feet of straight sightline down the walkway at anybody walking toward it.

One way in, no way off except the water, and every tenant out here knows exactly what is underneath them. People pay for the first two and live with the third.

Underneath#

The substructure is skirted and plated off, because what's down there is contaminated water and the piles standing in it. The one way to the sand is a gated stair about four hundred feet out, which is as far as the sand goes. Past that the deck stands in water.

A dozen people at a time work that sand, trading things that fit inside a coat. Salvage carried by hand out of the flats, jewelry and wine and medical stock and other people's documents. Paracritter parts and Tide-strange material out of El Infierno and the lower river, which is where the weird actually pays. Furniture goes out the long way, not through here.

What it is carrying#

It is holding about three times what it was built for, over water that eats steel. Piles get inspected by people the promoters and tenants pay privately, then patched, sleeved and re-sleeved. There are two closed sections on the old deck with fencing round them and a third that should have fencing round it. Only the inner half was ever properly rebuilt: the trade would carry four more levels and the piles will not, so the money stopped where the engineering did. What sits past that mark is occupied rather than built, containers and cabins that could in principle be craned off again, put there by people who did the arithmetic and took the rent anyway.

The rebuilt half pays to keep the whole structure open, so the trade upstairs and the trade on the sand both need the gallery to go on selling carousel rides to families from Pico. Every tenant out here can do that arithmetic too.

Nobody who works out there will discuss any of this with you, and everybody knows which bays to keep off.

What the crew knows#

Getting in#

Almost nobody arrives on the deck any more, and on a bad-wind day nobody sane does. The way in is Santa Monica Place: the old mall at Broadway and Second, sealed and filtered in the 2040s the same way everything else here was, because a shopping center already had the plant for it. Park inside, and take the tube, a glazed and gasketed pedestrian passage that runs from the mall down Colorado, over the highway and out onto the pier's second level without ever putting you in the air.

It's four hundred yards of glass with the ocean on one side and the closed beach on the other, moving walkways that work about half the time, and vendors along it who pay rent to somebody. The tube is free; you pay to park. It is the pier's front door, its busiest retail, and its one genuine chokepoint: one way in, one way out, sealed at both ends, and both ends watched.

For everything else the pier is a vertical problem. The upper decks are reached by exterior stairs that tenants control, so each trip costs thirty seconds in the air. Nobody uses them casually and anybody who does is noticed, and the two useful ones appear on none of the pier's own maps, because they were added by whoever owned the room at the top. The gated stair down to the sand is the only way off the structure that isn't the tube or the bridge; used at night, it is the single most reliable way here to attract the patrol.

Walking on at the Colorado end is still possible and still public. It's also open-air the whole way, so on a good-wind day it's a pleasant approach and on a bad one it marks you as somebody who either doesn't know or can't afford the tube.